If you want to build from a printed plan, download the plan for the 59″ Super Kaos for a 60 engine, published in RCM magazine, and print it at 60%.
The top of the fuselage will deviate slightly from what’s on the plan. Use a 3/16″ stick for the longeron on top of the fuselage.
When you have the top longerons in place, add two bulkheads to one side.
Turn this side over and put it on top of the other side, and glue the bulkheads to the other side. Here’s what it looks like after you get the two sides glued to the bulkheads. I’m using thin CA for these joints.
Find a piece of 3/16″ balsa sheet for the front of the fuselage top. This goes in front of the 3/16″ longerons. Mark a center line on it and line it up with the center of the firewall. Use a drop of glue to attach this block to the firewall only. That way the rear of the block will be able to move laterally as you add the top block and straighten the fuselage.
Add 3/16″ balsa fillers on top of the bulkheads and mark them with a center line.
Mark a center line on one face of the fuselage top, and also mark the center on the front edge. Mark the center of the firewall. Note that unlike the 60 size Super Kaos I have cut the top of the Kaos 10 to be flush with the front of the firewall. Put wood glue on top of the front block, and put the top in place with the front aligned at the center. Pin the top in place at the front.
Now go to the two bulkheads and align the center line with the center line of the fuselage top. When it is in line, tack it in place with a drop of glue at the top of each bulkhead.
Align the fuselage side with the edges of the fuselage top and use thin CA glue to attach them from the tail post to the front of the fuselage.
Add 3/8″ balsa triangle stock in the bottom of the nose compartment.
Add the wing saddles.
This isn’t shown on the plan, but I like to put a little bit of reinforcement in the aft fuselage on a Kaos because I consider it a weak spot in the original design. On the 10 size model I’m using a strip of 3/32″ balsa. This is especially useful at the tail end because I will be attaching a tail wheel there.
As you can see in the next photo I added a balsa filler in the tail post with vertical grain. I also added a stick to reinforce the back of the aft bulkhead.
The only thing left is the sheeting on the bottom of the fuselage. I’ll be adding a little piece of 1/16″ plywood for the tailwheel bracket. The rest of the aft fuselage gets 1/16″ balsa. The fuel tank compartment gets 1/8″ balsa, but don’t put it on until you drill the hole from the front for the wing dowel.
The wing should be built on a wing jig with 1/4″ rods, or on the table with a suitable shim under the trailing edge of the wings. According to my measurements you want to shim the trailing edge 5/16″ at the tip and 9/16″ at the root. I prefer to use the wing jig.
Engineered shear webs are provided. These are marked TOP at the top edge. The shear webs will hold the ribs at the correct angle and spacing. When you join the wing panels the wing will be flat across the top from tip to tip, and there will be a bit of dihedral on the bottom of the wing.
Here you can see my wing ribs on the wing jig. They are installed upside down. I have the bottom spar in place, and I have glued the shear webs to the spar so it holds the ribs in the correct position.
I flipped the wing over and added the top spar. The shear webs are glued to the spar, and the spars are glued into the notches after all the spacing has been determined.
Now that we have that settled, all you need to do is make sure the ribs are perpendicular to the rods and add the trailing edge, then the front sheeting. Put the bottom sheeting on first, so you can add the landing gear blocks without too much trouble, then add the top sheeting. Sand the sheeting flush with the front of the ribs, and add a 1/4″ stick to the front. I think you guys can take it from here, but if you have any other specific questions don’t hesitate to ask.