This is a great flying little plane. If you want to fly electric, you’ll have to design a battery hatch into it.
I’ve made a few modifications to the original design, but if you’ve built a few things before you should have no trouble figuring it out. Attach the main fuselage doublers first. Use 1/8″ music wire to make sure the wing dowel holes line up while you glue the doubler to the fuselage side. Then laminate the bulkheads. The plan shows 1/8″ balsa, but mine are laminated from two crossgrain layers of 1/16″ balsa. The front bulkhead is the tall one, and the rear one is the wide one. The rear bulkhead goes behind the main doubler, then the rear doubler is installed behind it. Use 1/8″ music wire once again to make sure the dowel holes are lined up.
Cheek cowl is made of alternating grain laminations of 1/16″ balsa.
The plan shows a 1/8″ ply firewall, but I have changed that to 1/16″ ply. This is adequate for electric as well as Cox 020 power. Also, I prefer a D-tube wing, so I’ve cut the ribs for 1/16″ balsa leading edge sheeting on top and bottom, and 1/16 x 3/4 sheeting on the trailing edge. Throw some shear webs in at the main spar and your wing will never twist.
I’ve added a slanted rear window to the fuselage side for easier construction. If you prefer the classic look, cut off this portion of the fuselage side just behind the rear bulkhead and install a block as shown on the plan, and install your rear dowel through it. But if you want to save the weight of the block and do it the easy way, leave the back window slant in place, add the rear doublers for dowel reinforcement, and install a piece of 1/16″ sheet for the back window.
One last thing is the landing gear. If you glue a little scrap of lite ply inside the floor, you can attach the landing gear to the bottom of the fuselage with a couple of #2 sheet metal screws.
Don’t worry about all of these extra instructions. When you get the kit it will be very obvious how it goes together. Even if you don’t get it, just send me an email.