Chuck Cunningham designed this plane with the firewall stuck to the front of the fuselage sides, but my kit has the firewall between the fuselage sides, which I think is a slightly better way to do it. Start your 1/8″ doublers 1/4″ behind the front of the fuselage sides to make room for the firewall.
Lite ply fuselage side doublers are provided for your convenience, to replace the 1/8″ balsa vertical grain doublers. Use these if you want to, or don’t if you don’t want to. The holes for the strut mount blocks are not included because I don’t know what size mount blocks you will be using.
Another deviation from the plan is the horizontal stabilizer. I don’t like the little point on the front of the ribs, so I’m cutting them for a 3/8 x 1/2 leading edge stick. (If you have only 3/8 x 3/8, just glue a 1/8 strip on one side.) Also, the four stabilizer center section ribs are cut smaller to accommodate the sheeting. Instead of putting the center sheeting between the center section ribs, just stick one sheet across the bottom, and put two smaller sheets on the top with a gap in the middle for the vertical stabilizer. Now your vertical stabilizer ribs get to sit on top of the bottom sheeting, which I think is nice.
One other deviation involves the front top deck. I’ve studied the plan, I’ve read the original construction article, and I’ve tried to figure it out. But I can’t figure it out. So I’m just designing the top deck my way. Build the fuselage, put the top bulkheads on, and install the 1/32″ ply skin so the aft edge covers Bulkhead C. I’ll cut this bulkhead with a relief on each side to accommodate the skin. I don’t know what Chuck was doing when he built the original. The skin sort of floats in front of C with nothing solid to attach to. My way doesn’t exactly match the plan, but I think you’ll like it. If you have any questions, just ask.
There are two options for the ribs. You can have them cut as shown on the plan, or modified to build the wing with cap strips. You tell me which way you want it. Sharp eyed observers will notice in the diagrams below that the rear spar size depends on which ribs you order, so pay attention.
Also, you may notice in the photo below that I built my Lazy Ace without the plywood rails on top of the cabane struts. I used soldered wire terminals on the tops of the struts for attaching the wing with four 1/4″ nylon bolts. You can order your kit with or without the plywood cabane rails. It just saves me a little bit of cutting time if I don’t have to include them.
Here are some more photos of the more recent Lazy Ace.