![\"DSC_0211\"](\"http:\/\/www.balsaworkbench.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_0211.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\nMy wing looks good, so now I need to measure the gap to see how big of a piece of balsa is needed to fill the space.<\/p>\n
Looks like a 3\/8 x 3\/8 stick should do the job. \u00a0The blocks\u00a0need to protrude far enough away from the fuselage to avoid interference, especially in the case of a wing to be retained by rubber bands. \u00a0As you can imagine, if there were only a half inch of space between the aileron and the fuselage, the ailerons would have a greater chance of accidentally encountering either the rubber band or the dowel itself. \u00a0On my plane the wing will be attached with bolts, so no matter, but I still like to get a little bit of distance between the aileron and the fuselage.<\/p>\n When I took the photos I assumed\u00a0that you know how a torque rod is put together and how it works. \u00a0But now that I’m thinking about it, here’s a short description. \u00a0It’s basically a 4-40 mild steel rod with a 1\/8″ ID nylon or brass tube on it to act as a bearing. \u00a0You can find these in kits at the hobby store, or you can make them yourself. \u00a0Put a bend in the threaded end, being careful to stay away from the threads themselves. \u00a0If you bend the rod at the threads or at the end of the threads, it will most likely break. \u00a0Then put the bearing on, trimmed long enough to reach the end of your balsa block, then bend the end that goes into the aileron. \u00a0Put a drop of light oil into each end of each bearing tube to keep glue out of there. \u00a0Getting glue into the tube really sucks, and you’ll have to start over.<\/p>\n After you have the torque rod assembled, put it in the correct location in relation to your block and press it to make an impression in the wood. \u00a0Note: \u00a0The “correct position” also implies that the arms will be close enough together in the middle to keep them from hitting wing mounting blocks and other push rods in the fuselage.<\/p>\n Also make marks where you will have to cut the clearance hole for the control arm. \u00a0Here’s what it looks like after it’s marked.<\/p>\n Have you ever wondered about the round grinding tool that comes with a Dremel set? \u00a0Now it’s time to use it. \u00a0Get the one that has the same diameter as your bearing tube, and grind a trough that will accommodate the tube to exactly half of its thickness.<\/p>\n Check for correct depth.<\/p>\n When you are certain that the slot is cut correctly, glue the bearing tubes into place. \u00a0Use just enough medium CA to hold them. \u00a0Don’t put a trainload of glue in there or it will squeeze out all over the place and interfere with proper fitment when you try to put the blocks on the wing.<\/p>\n Now that the torque rods are attached to the blocks, use them to mark the wing trailing edge the same way you marked the blocks earlier.<\/p>\n Cut the slots in the wing trailing edge. \u00a0This time you’ll have to cut an extended slot to accommodate the rod that attaches to the aileron.<\/p>\n Check to be sure that the slot is deep enough by trying to rock the block up and down. \u00a0If it rocks, that means that the tube is bottoming out in the slot, and the slot should be cut deeper. \u00a0When it is deep enough the gap will close on both sides and the wood can be glued together with medium CA. \u00a0Thin CA can be used, but care must be taken to prevent it from running and gluing the rods in place.<\/p>\n Note that these blocks are big and square, and they do not follow the contour of the wing surface. \u00a0This is OK. \u00a0In fact it’s preferable because if you use a piece of trailing edge stock you will have to try harder to make sure it’s attached at the correct angle. \u00a0With blocks you just stick them on and don’t worry about it. \u00a0Here’s what it looks like with both blocks in place and ready for sanding.<\/p>\n And here’s what it looks like after sanding.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Aileron controls have gone through several distinct historical phases. \u00a0In the 1960s and 70s most plans showed ailerons controlled by a single servo at the wing root via push rods and bell cranks. \u00a0Then it became popular to drive the … Continue reading <\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n