![\"wing\"](\"http:\/\/www.balsaworkbench.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/wing.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\nNow that we got all of that out of the way, let\u2019s look at the fuselage. \u00a0I\u2019m including \u00a0lite ply doublers for the fuselage sides to take the place of the plywood doublers shown on the plan. \u00a0Line it up with the wing saddle and it will set the correct location for the inset chin plate and the firewall. \u00a0F3 and F4 are keyed to the doubler. \u00a0This seems like an easy little upgrade that I might as well do as long as I have the laser cutter running anyway.<\/p>\n
When a kit includes 1\/8\u2033 plywood parts to be laminated together to make 1\/4\u2033 plywood parts I normally advise laminating first, before assembling the airplane. \u00a0In this case, I would suggest assembling the airplane with F2, then adding F1 afterwards. \u00a0Make sure to sand the front of the plane smooth before adding F1.<\/p>\n
The top block can be cut to make a hatch, or you can leave it intact and insert the fuel tank and battery into the nose compartment through the hole in F3. \u00a0It\u2019s your choice.<\/p>\n
This is a really nice project for a guy who knows how to fly and wants to learn how to build. \u00a0It would fly with a good .25 if you keep it light enough. \u00a0Or you can go all out with a .50, or anything in between. \u00a0If you have any questions about the construction details, send me an email.<\/p>\n
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In my short kit there are a few deviations from the plan. First and foremost, the wing is made with balsa ribs rather than foam. \u00a0Spars are 1\/4 x 1\/4 spruce or bass, and you should add 1\/16 balsa shear … Continue reading