Please specify if you want the glow version or the electric version. \u00a0The electric has the firewalls 2\u2033 forward.<\/p>\n
Sometimes I change a few things when I make a short kit, but this time I\u2019ve changed a lot of things. \u00a0The main difference is that the fuselage and bulkheads are cut from 1\/8\u2033 lite ply with tab and notch construction. \u00a0The front of the fuselage has a lite ply doubler, and the front of the lite ply doubler has a 1\/32\u2033 birch ply tripler, just because the front of the fuselage looks a little flimsy on the plan. \u00a0How you put it together will be obvious when you get the parts.<\/p>\n
You may recall me mentioning that 3\/8\u2033 balsa gets burned up by the laser cutter, so you\u2019ll\u00a0make the\u00a0stabilizer and elevator\u00a0yourself. \u00a0The most economical way is to build it out of 3\/8 x 3\/8 sticks of course. \u00a0But if you want to make it out of sheet wood, buy a couple of 3\/8 x 3 x 24 balsa sheets. \u00a0Edge glue these\u00a0to make a 6 x 24 sheet. \u00a0Then cut 2 inches off\u00a0to get a 4 inch wide stabilizer and a 2 inch elevator. \u00a0If you can\u2019t find 3\/8 x 3 x 24, you can use one 3 x 48 sheet, or two 3 x 36. \u00a0I\u2019ll provide the stabilizer tips shown on the plan, made from 3\/16\u2033 balsa to be laminated to 3\/8\u2033.<\/p>\n
The plan shows a foam core wing sheeted with 1\/16\u2033 balsa. \u00a0The short kit includes 25 balsa ribs for a built up wing. \u00a0Use 1\/4 x 1\/4 hard wood spars, and 3\/8 balsa leading and trailing edge. \u00a0For the top of the wing, add 1\/16\u2033 balsa leading edge sheet back to the spars, and about 1\u2033 wide trailing edge sheet, and 1\/16\u2033 balsa cap strips. \u00a0For the bottom of the wing, use firm sheeting full-chord to the nacelles, or maybe even for the entire main wing section. \u00a0Also you should put 1\/16\u2033 vertical grain shear webs between the spars.<\/p>\n
The main wing is built flat, with 44\u2033 spars. \u00a0The outboard sections can be attached with the provided dihedral braces, or just stuck on and reinforced with glass cloth.<\/p>\n
Build the nacelles first, then the wing. \u00a0Use the nacelles to help place the ribs in the correct position on each side of the nacelles so you can properly fit N3 between a pair of ribs.<\/p>\n
On the plan N3 extends from the bottom to the top of the nacelle, and the leading edge of the foam wing has a 7\/8\u2033 notch to accommodate N3. \u00a0It\u2019s a bad idea to cut through the leading edge on a built up wing, so the short kit has a new part called N3A, which bridges the space\u00a0between the leading edge and the lower spar. \u00a0N3 is installed below N3A as shown in the diagram below. \u00a0Attach these parts with epoxy or Titebond and add\u00a0some 3\/16 or 1\/4 balsa triangle stock to reinforce all of these joints.<\/p>\n
Please specify if you want the glow version or the electric version. \u00a0The electric has the firewalls 2\u2033 forward. Sometimes I change a few things when I make a short kit, but this time I\u2019ve changed a lot of things. … Continue reading ![\"uglytwinplan\"](\"http:\/\/www.balsaworkbench.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/uglytwinplan.jpg\")
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