The left wing is built directly on the plan. For the right wing, draw a line on the plan 5 inches behind the wing spar, the full length of the wing. Build the right wing with the spar pinned down at this line and the ribs facing the opposite direction. Try to envision which wing you’re building before you stick any parts together, so you will end up with a left and a right when it’s all said and done. The following photos taken with the wings on the paper plan may skip back and forth between left and right wings, but when you do it you will build one, then the other.

Start by pinning a 1/4 x 1/2 x 36 bass wood spar to the table. You obviously won’t pin through the spar because it’s too hard. Put the pins next to the spar. If your spar is bowed you can easily straighten it out with two pins on one side of the spar and one on the other side. The pins can be inserted all the way down so the head of the T-pin holds the spar down flat on the table and prevent arching.

Find rib #1 and set it aside for now. Starting with rib #2, attach the rest of the ribs to the bottom spar. Make sure the spar is fully seated in the notch, and use a square to make sure the ribs are standing up straight.

When all the ribs are attached to the spar, add the 3/8 x 1/2 x 36 balsa trailing edge stick. While holding the rib and the stick flat on the table, glue the stick to the center most rib. Make sure the rib is straight, and pin the trailing edge to the table at this location.

Glue the tip rib to the trailing edge stick, and pin the trailing edge to the table at the tip.

Repeat the process at rib #2, then straighten and attach all the rest of the ribs. When you make these joints, hold the rib and the stick tightly to the table and make sure the stick isn’t leaning and leaving a gap. Every time you add something to the wing, make sure everything is flat, fully seated, and as straight as possible.

When the trailing edge stick is attached to all of the other ribs, put rib #1 in place and set the angle with the dihedral gauge. Double and triple check the angle, and glue it to the bottom spar and the trailing edge.

The next part to glue into place is the 3/8 x 3/8 x 36 balsa leading edge stick. Seat it fully in the fish-mouth notch and glue it in place on one rib at mid span, then at the tip, then at #2. Then glue it to the remaining ribs, making sure it’s fully seated in the notch. Do #1 last. Double check the dihedral angle before gluing.

Sharp corners on the top spar may cause difficulty when you try to press it into the top spar notches in the ribs. It will help if you use a sanding block to slightly chamfer the corners before installing the spar.

When you get it in place and glue it to the ribs, do rib #1 last again. Use the dihedral gauge to check the angle of rib #1, and when you have it right, go ahead and glue it.

Now pull your pins, take the wing off the table, and do the other wing. You should have drawn the spar line 5 inches away from the spar location shown on the plan, so you can install the ribs facing the other direction for this wing. When you finish, you should have a left wing and a right wing.

Now it’s time to cut sheeting. The leading edge sheeting is tapered to match the wings. On a piece of 1/16 x 4 x 48 balsa make a mark at one end 1 inch from the edge.

Turn the sheet around and mark the other end the same way. Put the marks on opposite edges, so cutting between these two marks will create two tapered sheets.

Cut two sheets, so you end up with four tapered pieces.

Make a center mark on each end of a 1/16 x 4 x 36 balsa sheet.

Split the sheet in half. Do this to two sheets, so you end up with four 1/16 x 2 x 36 pieces.

Mark each end of a 1/16 x 4 x 36 sheet at 1 inch intervals.

Make four 1/16 x 1 x 36 sheets.

Match the four tapered pieces to the four 2 inch wide pieces.

The tapered piece is longer. Let the little end hang off by itself.

Use your favorite edge-gluing method to join the two parts. My favorite way is to tape the joint with masking tape, then bend it open and apply nitrocellulose cement, then flatten it on the table and weigh it down. I have a can of Fab Tac. You can use Elmer’s glue or Titebond, or just glue the pieces together with CA. CA will cause a line that’s visible through the covering, but it’s up to you.

While that’s drying you can put a piece of 1/16 x 1 x 36 trailing edge sheeting on the bottom of each wing panel.

As always, make sure the wing is flat when you add something. It’s worth noting that if your trailing edge wants to have an arch in it, you can flatten it out when adding this piece of sheeting.